Serbian spread. Photo courtesy of
Manufaktura.
Belgrade
has been described by some as Berlin-like, but the Serbian capital has a charm
all its own.
BELGRADE,
Serbia – Perched on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, Belgrade
feels like a grittier Prague — unpolished but appealing, with a burgeoning
design and art scene and an active nightlife. It comes as no surprise then that
Serbia's historic capital and largest city draws young travelers looking for
affordable and under-the-radar experiences. But what surprised this seasoned
(and sober) traveler was the food scene, a mix of old-world favorites and lively
establishments. Here's how I took it all in on my first time in town.
1. Any
meal that starts with olives makes me happy, even breakfast. The buffet
at Metropol Palace Hotel is an
Eastern European delight: olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggs, mushrooms, and
strong coffee with hot mleko (milk). I wait for a table near
the window overlooking verdant Tašmajdan Park, where dogs are playing among
energetic kids, a nice contrast to the gray city beyond.
2. I
head to Legacy of PetarLubarda gallery (Iličićeva Street 1;
+381-11-2660-404) to see works by the famous 20th-century Serbian painter. His
art touches on Serbia's changing political and social landscape and is very
emotional — the artist's time in a concentration camp during WWII comes across
in his paintings, even recent ones.
Outdoor seating at
Manufaktura.Photo by Judy Koutsky.
Kafana Question Mark.Photo by Judy
Koutsky.
3. I'm a fan of walking with no particular destination in mind,
so I hit the streets of Old Town (Stari
Grad) for people-watching. My route takes me down KnezMihailova,
the city's main pedestrian zone and its shops, cafes, and restaurants, then
along winding cobblestone streets in KosancicevVenac, a vibrant neighborhood in
the heart of Stari Grad.
4. I love walking almost as much as I love good, strong coffee,
so I break at Belgrade's oldest traditional tavern, Kafana
Question Mark (Kralja
Petra 6; +381-11-263-5421), the place with the "?" above the door.
The restaurant, located across St. Michael's Cathedral in the heart of Old
Town, was built in 1823 and retains its original interiors. Many order
JelenPivo here, the local beer, but I go for Turkish coffee, for which the
place is known. Since the weather is nice, I sit outside for fresh air.
Everyone smokes here, and sitting inside is to be engulfed in cigarette smoke
fairly quickly.
5. Lunch at Manufaktura is a spread of Serbian mezze: proja (cornbread), gibanica (spinach and cheese filo-dough
pastry), kajmak (cream-cheese-like condiment for pita
and meat), prosciutto, bacon, feta, smoked cheese, and unforgettable ajvar,
a delicious roasted red pepper spread. The hip restaurant has outdoor seating
in the heart of a pedestrian walkway under a sea of red umbrellas, making the
people-watching almost as good as the food.
6. Belgrade architecture is an interesting mix of Eastern bloc
buildings and beautiful 20th-century designs. I walk to Belgrade Fortress, also
known as Kalemegdan Fortress, which has one of the city's largest parks and
some of the best views of the Danube. From here, I visit Museum of Yugoslav History, where I
snag some quirky Soviet-era memorabilia from the gift shop before moving onto
House of Flowers, Josip Broz Tito's Memorial.
7. Turkish coffee is drunk regularly throughout the day, and I'm
happy to comply. This time, I have it at Amphora
River Cafe, a splav,
or floating restaurant. Unique to this region, splavs are at the heart of
nightlife, and are also great places for coffee or lunch during the day. In the
evening, music is loud and the scene is lively. Since it's on the water,
there's no bothering the neighbors.
8. I gravitate towards Church
of Saint Sava, which can be seen from many
points in the city and is reminiscent of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Construction
on the famous church started in 1935. The exterior was completed in 2004, but
the interior has a long way to go. When finished, the space will hold more than
10,000 people and host one of the largest collections of mosaics in the world.
Where the Sava and Danube met.Photo
by Judy Koutsky.
A splav.Photo courtesy of Amphora
River Cafe.
9. Dinner is traditional Serbian cuisine (think lots of meat) at Tri Šešira.
The historic restaurant has two orchestras that play folk music and is filled
with locals young and old, speaking and laughing at the top of their lungs as
they spend hours at the dinner table. I have pork, beef, chicken, and veal all
on one skewer, known as Milo's Sword, and revel in the atmosphere.
10. I don't drink, but I stop into Rakia Bar for
a lesson on the famous national drink of Serbia. Rakia, I learn, can be made
from all kinds of fruit and spices including pears, quince, raspberry, honey,
lavender, and thyme. The long, narrow bar serves over 54 varieties, including
thirteen of their own homemade products, but the crowd favorite among locals
and travelers alike is plum. How's this for a fun fact: Serbia is the world's
second largest producer of plums.
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